Bart and Kimberley write:
We much appreciate your work in the Bradt Ghana travel guide. This has been our primary tool for our ongoing 5 week Ghana journey. We have two weeks left.
Yesterday, we travelled from the Wli Falls to Kumasi by crossing Lake Volta and the Afram Plains. It took us 1 taxi, 4 trotro’s, 2 ferry’s and 1 Uber.
We noticed that the ferry from Kpandu (mentioned as being non-operatonial for the foreseeable future on p358 of the 8th edition) is back in service. It has been equipped with two – what look to be brand new – stationary engines. Unfortunately, we had already crossed by boat (90 Cedi, probably way to expensive) before we saw the ferry at the western lake bank. Bu we saw the ferry leave, so we can definitely confirm it is back in service, but we don’t know the price as it had already left when we arrived.
Also the ferry to Adowso is working. We paid 3GHC per person.
Here’s also our travel schedule for crossing the Afram plains:
8:30 AM, taxi from Wli heights hotel to Kpandu port for 2 persons and 4 bags. 130 Cedi.
10:30 AM, wooden boat with outboard engine from Kpandu across the Volta lake. Boat was shared with 5 locals. We paid 45 Cedi p.p., the locals paid 25 Cedi. 45 minutes boat ride.
11:30 AM, shared taxi (6 passengers, haha, you know how that goes) to Donkorkrom. 9 Cedi p. P.
12:00 we got chop bar lunch in Donkorkrom, directly at the trotro station, jollof rice + chicken, 7 Cedi p. P
12:30 trotro to Ekyiamenfrom, 1,5 hours, 12 Cedi p. P
15:00 trotro to Nkawkaw, 15 Cedi p. P. The ferry rate is not included. Ferry ticket 3 Cedi p. P, you get a ticket. There’s a ticket office next to the ferry. Trotro drivers will assist. Our trotro was also jammed with a 100 kg load of fresh bushmeat and a goat. Not for sensitive noses and minds.
16:30 in the late afternoon, no trotro’s start from Nkawkaw to Kumasi anymore. We stood by the main road in direction Kumasi. It took no more than 10 minutes to stop a trotro that came from Accra and was heading to Kumasi. Trotro with TV on board to Kumasi, 15 Cedi p. P. 2 hours drive. Multiple stops allow you to buy drinks and fast food (grilled plantain, etc) to soften the ride.
19:00 Uber from Kumasi centre to the hotel. 8km, 30 minutes, 17 Cedi in total.
Hope this helps other travelers.
PS: the Afram plains offer a quite monotonous scenery, yet, the adventure of the trotro ‘s and the stunning mountain cliff scenery at Nkawkaw was unforgettable.