Lake Volta via the Afram Plains

Sophie writes:
I travelled in Ghana for three weeks in January/February 2017 with the 6th edition (so some info may already have been updated in the 7th).

At the end of January I crossed Lake Volta via the Afram Plains. I arrived at Kpandu Torkor bright and early, and found myself the very first would-be passenger. Others followed in dribs and drabs but there was little consensus on what time the boat might be expected to arrive. Some thought around 10am, others thought midday… In the end the boat arrived around midday and set off again from Torkor around 3pm, taking about an hour to cross. The timing seems to be largely dependent on the demand at Agordeke, which is where the boat is moored overnight.

This may all be irrelevant, however, as the old ferry has apparently now been repaired! It was sitting in the water at Agordeke and the rumour was that it would start operating again two days later (30 January).

With or without the ferry I can recommend this route to other travellers wanting to travel between the Kwahu plateau and the Volta region, which are two very beautiful parts of Ghana. A certain amount of patience may be required, but no more than when travelling in other rural areas, and if the ferry is operating again it should all be much more straightforward.

Readers should perhaps be warned against travelling in much smaller fishing boats that may be chartered by others who do not wish to wait for the larger passenger boat. While waiting at Torkor I was urged to join such a group (to spread the cost), but was far from convinced that the boat was safe.

NB. the market at Kpandu Torkor operates on an 8-day(?) cycle. It seems to be fairly quiet on other days, as does the market at Donkorkrom, where the main market day is Thursday.

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