We just returned from Ghana. Your travel guide provided some excellent information, thank you for that! I only have a few minor corrections, updates and comments:
1. The Yeji-Akosombo-ferry now leaves Yeji on Wednesday morning around 3 to 4 a.m. We spent our night in Yeji in the Alliance Hotel, which is alright, but pretty rundown and without running water. Instead, there are only buckets with water that seems quite dirty. Double room was 20 Cedi.
2. Unfortunately, there are no longer any direct connections to Mole, which makes going there and leaving pretty hard and you are forced to stop in Larabanga. Going from Larabanga to Mole costs 30 Cedis in a taxi, which is totally overpriced. Thus, leaving Mole and as there are no trotros from Larabanga to Tamale, one might try to get a taxi directly from Mole to Damongo.
Chances to see elephants on a guided walking tour are best if you wait in the Mole Motel until you see elephants coming to the water hole. Then, immediately ask a guide to accompany you down there. Otherwise, you might walk a while without seeing any large animals.
A very relaxed sleeping option are the treehouses. They cost 30 Cedis per night, but sleeping mats and mosquito nets are extra, so it is advisable to bring your own. However, for the transport to the treehouse, the tree house sleepers are charged 60 Cedis for both ways, so financially this only makes sense if you are a larger group. Also note that it can get quite cold at night, compared with other Ghanaian regions (15°C in January, when we visited).
The Mole Motel has increased its prices especially for food, so that the meals now are heavily overpriced while of rather poor quality. Simple meals start at 40 Cedis. A better alternative might be the staff canteen (well hidden behind the little store next to the ranger station) which serves decent local food for 10 Cedis.
3. We found Larabanga quite annoying. Local people try to make as much money as possible by stopping tourists and asking them quite insistently to give money to local education. The reason for this is probably (maybe this is a topic for a background text) that the Larabanga people were promised to generate decent incomes from the National Parc as it was established on their former hunting grounds. However, until today, this hasn’t been the case, according to the local people.
4. In Tamale around the National Culture Centre are some very cool and relatively cheap art and craft shops. We found that to be the highlight of Tamale.
Unfortunately, the Sparkles restaurant was closed when we found it, though we’re not sure whether that’s permanent.