Trip report from May-June 2013

My name is Andrew and I spent May and June of this year traveling around the coastal and Volta Region areas of Ghana. The book (and this website) proved fantastically useful to me during my stay so I thought I’d chip in with my 2 cents.

First off, pretty much every price listed in the 5th edition for everywhere I stayed has since almost doubled. There is a lot of the country that I didn’t see so this isn’t a blanket statement but please do keep it in mind as I almost turned up to a few remote places (I.E. no cash machine anywhere near) without enough money to pay for my stay and food etc. Places I stayed (which have all increased their prices) are as follows:

Big Milly’s in Kokrobite
The Rising Phoenix in Accra
Oasis Beach Resort in Cape Coast
Peter’s Place in Busua
Hideout Lodge in Butre
Beyin Beach Resort in Beyin
Fiave Lodge in Ho
The one guesthouse in Helekpe
Biakpa Mountain Paradise in Biakpa
Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary
The Grand Hotel in Hohoe
The guesthouse in Liate Wote
Aylo’s Bay in Atimpoku / Akosombo
Maranatha in Ada Foah
Emancipation Beach in Keta

The Rising Phoenix seems to get a raw deal on the internet due to people complaining about the smell from the beach. I personally didn’t smell anything unpleasant the entire time I was there and assume it’s more to do with the tide or the heat than the content of the beach. It’s a nice place but its budget rooms are a bit of a rip off really.

Oasis I cannot recommend enough. I LOVED Cape Coast.

Peter’s Place in Busua was OK but anyone looking for something a little friendlier should make their way down to the Still Princess, a big blue bar at the far right (if you’re facing the sea) end of the beach. They offer accommodation above the bar for C10 per night and Rafat, the barman has rooms to rent at his house which is about 5 minutes from the beach. He is a wonderful man!

Tafi Atome now seem to only offer their facilities as part of a bulk deal where you give them a chunk of money and get everything they offer. There didn’t seem to be much negotiation to be had about this so think carefully about what your plans are.

The Grand Hotel in Hohoe has gone SERIOUSLY upmarket if it was once the budget backpacker’s first choice. The cheapest rooms have en suite bathrooms and TVs. Shame there isn’t anything to watch!

Emancipation Beach deserves a mention for being so wonderful. Stella who runs the place is an amazing host and made me feel at home the whole time I was there. Check it out.

Other things:

The MV Dodi Princess is no longer running due to it burning down (!)

Anyone who is heading to the Wli Falls seriously needs to check this place out:

http://www.modostkoparadise.com/

Run by a lovely Togolese guy called Stephan, they’ve fallen on hard times of late due to a fire and the death of his business partner. As such, they can’t offer you the most amazing accommodation but the price is totally negotiable and may even be waived if you help out with repairs or working the land. His friend and local drum teacher James is a wonderful person to guide you to the falls and onwards further up the mountains. If you like hiking, music and the peace of quiet of the nature, please, please, please at least drop in and say hello, they need all the support they can get to rebuild what was, for a while at least, an amazing project. Stephan can be reached via facebook, he’s under the name “Ras Modostko”.

Overall, I found Ghana to be absolutely wonderful and seriously cannot wait to return. I hope this helps people!

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2 thoughts on “Trip report from May-June 2013

  1. James Fraser says:

    Andrew, thank you for you comments on your trip. I met Stephen last year when I was walking down the road that passes his place. As you say he is a nice guy. If you ever visit Winneba try Manuels Guest House, just by Sir Charles Beach. He also is very friendly. (I stay just behind his place in some of the winter months) James.

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