To Tamale via Bimbila

Here is an update on the road to Tamale via Bimbila (fifth edition page 285) It is worth the hassle if you want to get completely away from other tourists and to see a much more scenic route than the conventional road via Kumasi.
There are numerous tro tros from Accra/Tema to Hohoe. From Hohoe, where we stayed the night, there are at least three tro tros a day to Nkwanta or Kpassa, ours left at 7 am. A delicious street breakfast can be had on the other side of the road to the departure bay! Change at Nkwanta or if possible at Kpassa. At Nkwanta take a very ancient shared Peugot 504 to Kpassa. Change at Kpassa for Bimbila. There are several tro tros a day. Then change at Bimbila for Salaga or for Yendi. We chose to go via Yendi. From Yendi take the Metro bus to Tamale. All this sounds complicated, But we did Hohoe to Bimbila in a reasonably easy day. However the roads are very bad and could become impassable for a time after rain. In the dry season you will be covered in red dust. Allow three days for the whole journey Accra/Tamale.
There is a Guest House in Bimbila, improbably called The Junior Original Guest House. It is far from clean and over priced at cedis 30 for a s/c.
But just a word of warning about the Central Guest House in Tamale, recommended under ‘shoe string’ in the Guide. They refused to show us the room unless cedis 20 was paid before the key was produced and the room inspected. I unwisely agreed and paid up. It was the filthiest room I have yet to see in Ghana. The pillow, when lifted, left a deep tide mark where the dust had settled. The rest of the room was in a similar state. There was no water in the taps and the wire to the TV was cut and dangerously exposed. It was clear that the main custom of the place was aimed at ‘short time’ clients. Avoid the place!

James Fraser

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