The following update information relates to chapter 9 of the Bradt Guide to Ghana:
Ellis Hideaway at Butre – Spent Christmas here, very hospitable owners, food was very good and they put on drumming dancing and a fire but lots of mosquitoes. Lisa, March 07.
Axim Beach Resort. Obviously higher end prices but cannot rate this place highly enough. Especially for those who are not on a budget. Location, service, food, staff, rooms were all excellent. The near by town was very friendly too. Lisa, March 07.
We spent 5 days in Busua, a couple more than we intended to. This was mainly due to the Quality offered by the Busua Inn. Friendly and helpful owners and staff, clean rooms, nice food, all for a very reasonable price. Splendid location from where you can walk easily to places like Butre and Dixcove. The atmosphere is just great as you feel a great warmth amidst the local villagers. Leo Janssens, March 07.
Nzulezu was probably the highlight of our trip, because of the beautiful surroundings there and our very pleasant stay at the Beyin Beach Resort. We got the warmest welcome by the British-British/Ghanaian couple, the chalet room was perfectly clean, comfortable, beautiful and cosy as only the English can decorate them. Although about the same price as at Mole Motel and Hans Cottage (Cape Coast) where we were or disappointed in the amount or in the taste, the food was worth every penny: it was delicious and more than enough, and there is a wide variety of European and Ghanaian dishes. It brought a welcome peacefulness after 3 weeks of travelling around Ghana. I would also like to mention to you that there is no problem to visit Nzulezu village on Thursdays or Sundays – we visited it ourselves on Thursday. Isabelle Schuerbeke, April 07.
We recently opened Kedas lodge at Miemia beach in the Western region of Ghana. We have a number of self catering family units that sleep 4 to 6 , these are US 75 per night , A/c DSTV , full kitchen etc, a number of double units at US 60 and a number of budget double at 25 . We have whale watch tours from our 25 ft boat , and self or guided open kayak tours to cape three points , outer reefs or the mangrove river behind Miemia . A bar, restaurant and shop are located at the site . Pick up/drop off from Takoradi via 4 x4 can be arranged with prior bookings, Kevin and Dansoa Gallagher, April 07.
The African Rainbow in Busua is the very best place to stay. Very friendly place, good food, and view. Has a real pool table and good bar! Check out their new roof top bar! They can provide taxi service all over the area. This area is good for day hikes. One direction, over the hill is Butre where there is a Fort. Take a canoe trip across the river and then you can walk on the beach for miles. You can pass Ellis Hideout and keep going. There is an Ivorian ran guest house and restaurant on up the beach. In the other direction from Busua takes you into Dixcove where there is another fort. Norman Peters, Feb 07.
LOU MOON LODGE, is a very beautiful, posh place on the marvellous beach near Axim, definitely the best beachside accommodation on the coast…. the price is high, but it is worth spending at least one day/night. Plus, maybe the only place in Ghana where you can actually swim, protected from the ocean waves!!! www.loumoon-lodge.com. Ivy & Paul Stone, June 07.
Ankasa – we had a 2-hr walk with a park-guide who told us in all seriousness that elephants were omnivores who preferentially eat python (“they throw them up in the air and swallow them whole!”). Accommodation inside the park is camping only: both Ankasa (near the entrance) and Nkwanta (near the bamboo cathedral) camps are closed, and the Park HQ chalets are occupied by park staff and visiting researchers. No food or drinks anywhere – bring your own. Entry c65,000 for two (odd pricing system).
There is now a surf shop in Busua Beach. The shop is called Black Star Surf Shop and the website is www.ghanasurfing.com. John, July 07.
In Takoradi a fairly new and nice good standard restaurant Bocadillos. They have many types of food, local (even some Nigerian) and international, pastries, French baguettes, cakes (!!) and ice cream. They have a nice bar too where they also show movies on Sundays. Sometimes also live bands. Akroma Plaza a nice and big restaurant. North Sea restaurant also in Takoradi a good German owned restaurant. Happy hour on Fridays at 6pm. Night clubs in Takoradi Fridays BBJ’s, Saturdays Ahenfie and Paragon. In Africa Beach Resort live music on Saturdays. A nice outdoors restaurant at Paloma Beach there on the rocks, mainly for enjoying a few drinks and the breeze. A fairly new bar Café de Paris, a nice sophisticated lounge with comfortable sofas at the back, a bit up scale. Tiina Heusala, July 07
Another beach resort also being built, almost ready, at Cape Three Points. Btw, it was recently in the news that they have discovered oil there near the Cape Three Points. Tiina Heusala, July 07
The African Rainbow Resort just west of Takoradi in Busua. Ah, what a wonderfully relaxing place to stay. Akwasi & Sewaa make it feel like you are their personal guest. There are so many wonderful things to say about this place. It is run by Akwasi & Sewaa, son & daughter of the owners. The staff is great. The food is wonderful. The view of the Atlantic Ocean is spectacular. And on a Friday or Saturday night you just might find yourself partying with Akwasi & Sewaa, and any number of other visitors from around the World! Gorham Bowler, Sep 07.
I’ve just returned from a great trip to Busua Beach in Ghana and found an incredible surf shop and restaurant that can not be missed. The Black Star Surf Shop, a funky turquoise-coloured beach spot located on the main road in Busua Beach, is THE PLACE to learn to surf, rent a surf or boogie board, rent or buy swim apparel, or simply hang out on the patio and have a cold beer or meal while watching the waves. As a first time surfer, I had a fantastic hands-on lesson from an experienced surfer that was knowledgeable, patient, and above all, fun! I was riding the waves by the end of the day! Boards, clothing, and lessons are all high quality. A great feature of the surf shop is that it is co-run and co-owned by locals that are friendly, helpful, and responsible – great way to support the local economy. The shop is attached to the Okorye Tree Restaurant that offers excellent local and international dishes made by two of the coolest Ghanaian women around. The tropical fruit smoothies are a must have! If you find yourself in Busua Beach, you have to check out the Black Star Surf Shop and Okorye Tree Restaurant. The staff make you feel like family, the location is unbeatable, the atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable, and the surf’s always up! Stephanie Coppeto, Jan 08.
Axim now has western union now, still no banks with ATM. The Kundun Festival is in September each year. The Axim Beach Resort is supposed to be the only internet in Axim, however it’s a bit unreliable and I had to take a tro-tro to Takoradi to use internet. We saw whales and dolphins off the coast in Aug 2007. The Ghana govt is supposed to help with $13 million harbour to expand fishermen’s work with fibreglass boats, deep sea fishing to catch tuna for export to Netherlands. (I saw the report of Ministry of Fishing in Accra). The harbour project for Axim is part of Ghana govt coastal project, there are 6-7 other small towns that will receive some form of help, not all harbours, but some kind of help for fishing. Current beach is to be cleaned up and fishing to go through the harbour. (no plans for displaced residents at beach). A New Community Centre has meeting space available for rent in Axim: Part of Western Heritage Home, (which opened it’s doors to 28 children without parents to care for them in December) and constructed in partnership with Global Citizen Journey, Seattle, WA, USA (Ghana doesn’t use word orphans). Renting the space helps with sustainability of children in the home. Diana Lilla, Jan 08.
Beware the bush path between Axim and Axim Beach Resort: I was robbed there, and similar incidents occurred within the last year to at least two other women. Diana Lilla, Jan 08.
Recently returned from Ghana. I can highly recommend the ‘Okorye Tree’ Restaurant in Busua. It is run by a local Ghanaian and is part of the Black Star Surf Shop which is next to Busua Inn. You eat on the deck, right on the beach. It opened just before Christmas, food delicious with a good choice of Vegetarian and Non Vegetarian meals. Snacks from 1 Cedi and Dinners up to 10 Cedis. I mainly ate large tasty dinners for around 5 Cedis. The 10 Cedis meals are a bit special, on New Years Eve I ate a meal consisting of 2 freshly caught lobsters, cut in half with a garlic and cheese topping, mouth-wateringly delicious. They also had a New Years Party with entertainment, a bonfire and fireworks, most of the locals coming down and joining in. On the first day in Busua I met the pancake man in your book (is it Sam?). He is a bit of a con. I went to his place by the church and ordered a plate of pineapple and a glass of fresh orange. He brought me a plate of pineapple with a bit of papaya on and said he’d put it on because it was good. He also brought a small bottle of fresh orange. I was then charged well over double and it resulted in an argument. I did pay but told him I would not eat there again. Janet Tonks. Feb 08.
We stayed at Busua Inn (www.busuainn.com), Danielle’s food is still remembered with relish, she & Olivier have an excellent set up; which brings me to the second property they have, run by Jacob at the moment, a very calm, trustworthy guy. Ezile Bay is just the other side of Akwidaa village and is paradise! They have 6 or so bungalows there, a kitchen with a cook trained by Danielle and it’s being set up to be eco-friendly. (Advertised on the Busua Inn site on the web or you might be able to access it via www.ezilebay.com). It sits on a very calm bay and just to the other side there’s a great surf beach. We met Germans in Awkidaa who’d been at Green Turtle Lodge who said that the sea there was incredibly dangerous and he thought he was drowning – he made a booking at Ezile and seemed very happy he could swim there. It’s a perfect place for children too (I had my 12 yr old goddaughter with me) no need to worry about currents. FYI taxis from Agona Junction down to Busua are .50c a seat or 2 cedi for the 4 seater taxis, we had a lot of problems getting taxis down there with some ridiculous rates being quoted! Chloe Grant, Jan 08.
Here’s some update info about our resort in Beyin. Our website is www.beyinbeachresort.com. We now have 3 Economy rooms- 2 twin rooms and 1 4 bed. Priced at 10 GHc $11 and 20 GHc $20 with shared bathroom that have HOT showers. We also offer a 25% dicount on our luxury chalets to all volunteers ( with valid I.D)these including breakfast these are 24 GHc. We have started a Turtle Conservation Project for the turtles that nest on the beaches of Beyin and are looking for volunteers. Nina Sarpong (owner), Feb 08.
We had read about the stilt village Nzulezo and decided to stay a Beyin Beach Resort, which is located next door. The guide hadn’t given much detail but we gave them a call and booked a night’s stay. When phoning we found out that they now have economy accommodation for only 10 ghc per night for a twin room, with a separate toilet/shower block with hot water! We arrive to a very friendly welcome and our room was a very clean and tidy twin bed room with mosquito nets. The resort was amazing; it’s set in a coconut grove right next to the ocean, they have two restaurant areas and we enjoyed a fantastic lunch of Ghanaian and English dishes (I can highly recommend the fish kebabs!). At lunch we spoke with the resort owner Nina, who was very friendly and informative about the local area. She told us about the recent set up of their Turtle Conservation Project and that night we went on an early morning turtle walk and we were very lucky to witness a Green Turtle nesting, the egg’s were then collected and re-nest them in their conservation area, it really was a once in a lifetime experience! We enjoyed our stay so much that we stayed another two nights and spent a couple of days relaxing on the sun beds, we even managed to get to watch Ghana play football in the African Nations down in the village! It has become a highlight of our trip. Sarah Hatton, Feb 08.
Beyin Beach Resort (www.beyinbeachresort.com) is run by a British/Ghanaian guy and his English wife and they built it from scratch about a year ago (I think!). It is an absolutely idyllic place with lots of little well built structures to relax in all set in the shade of huge palm trees right on a lovely stretch of deserted beach which is perfectly safe to swim from. There are a number of 4 person rooms in individual huts with shared facilities and 4 ‘luxury’ rooms en-suite. We only spent 2 nights there but the welcome received was quite remarkable even by the standards if a place as friendly as Ghana! Patrick and Nina were unbelievable helpful and helped us sort out a number of logistical problems and issues we were having. So add to the ideal setting and a lovely couple managing it, some gorgeous food and it really is a place I could not recommend highly enough! They are also doing some really good work with turtle conservation in the area. James Barr, Mar 08.
To travel to Beyin is easy by public transport. At Takoradi go to the Nzema tro-tro station where there is a direct tro-tro to Beyin at roughly 10:00, 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00 costing (at time of press) 2.9 ghc. - this journey is about 2hours. Alternatively you can get a tro-tro from this station to Essiama 1.9ghc and then share a taxi to Eiwke for 0.80 and from Eiwke to Beyin share a taxi for 0.80. I f you are travelling at night we recommend that you get a tro-tro to Essiama and then a private taxi to Beyin 15-20 ghc.. By private car leaving Takoradi leave following the Elubo road, after passing Ankobra toll bridge go through Essiama, after the 3rd bridge take a left hand turn sigh posted Amursuri Conservation Area and Beyin Beach Resort. We are 20km from this turning at the end of the village of Beyin next to the Ghana Wildlife visitor’s office. Nina Sarpong (Beyin Beach Resort), Mar 08.
Green Turtle Lodge is as deservedly popular as ever and reservations by text on 00233 (0) 244 89 35 66 are still recommended. Safari Beach Lodge is 10 minutes along the beach and equally at home with compost toilets and solar panels. The huts, $40 a night, are fantastic, as is the service, but the gallery is currently closed following a roof leak. Even though the owners are big meat eaters, vegetarian dishes can be prepared upon request. It’s worth noting that the cocktails are half the price at green turtle and both places run simultaneous happy hours at 5.30 – 7pm (5.000p off). Abigail Herron, Mar 08
I have been to Axim, Ghana four times in the last 1.5 years, so I know the town very well. I am a volunteer consultant and advisory board member for Western Heritage Home, a Ghanaian NGO based in Axim, focusing mostly on children’s care and education, women’s economic development, and health and sanitation. I enjoy this economically challenged but welcoming town so much. Although I take the usual precautions, esp. as an older woman, about walking by myself in wooded or isolated areas, I find Axim extremely safe and welcoming. It’s a fishing town, with many economic challenges, but it has a sense of pride about it. Aximites are friendly, helpful to a fault, amazingly cheerful, even in the face of sometimes difficult circumstances. I especially enjoy the Axim Beach Hotel. It’s on the ocean, with wonderful views. The food is good, with an “upper restaurant” with wonderful ocean views, and another right on the beach. The accommodations range from somewhat upscale to “volunteer villa” modest but are comfortable and welcoming with a good range of affordable prices. The staff is outstanding. The owner has taken many steps to make his hotel safe and secure, with strategically placed trusted staff at entrances, excellent lighting with backup generator, a deep well for safe water, a highly-trained chef who prepares delicious meals with high kitchen sanitation practices, a “lock-up” for valuables, etc. and all done in an unobtrusive manner. Some of the taxi drivers are a bit lax about seat belts, but I find if I insist, they accommodate. There is an old castle, with a knowledgeable guide, and technically amazing hand-crafted fishing boats and hand-made nets. Check out any of the churches on a Sunday morning, for a musical and rhythmic treat as people sing and dance their praises to the Lord. Drop in at Friends restaurant for a good and inexpensive meal of “real” Ghanaian food. Enjoy Cynthia’s new internet cafe right next to the Ghana Commercial Bank. Spend a few days in Axim. Don’t be afraid to simply walk the streets and savour Ghanaian life as it’s lived by Ghanaians day-by-day in this modest town in a breathtakingly beautiful setting. If you get lost, don’t worry. Some kind soul will probably walk you all the way back to the town centre, where you’ll find your bearings. Maryanne Ward, Apr 08.
The definite highlight of my trip was Green Turtle Lodge. What is said about it being a sucker for disrupting travel plans is too true. it was just lucky it was at the end so I had to leave to get my flight! I ended up there for a week out of 12 days travel, and didnt get to Nzulezu because of this. but i have no regrets! The canoe trip here through the mangroves is not really worth the 5cedi, it might have been better to just give 5Ghc to the community fund! the river is just a sewage pipe it seemed, and the boat never felt stable, even by Ghanaian standards! still, the most relaxing place I have ever been to, with very friendly managers who were looking after the place whilst the owners were back in the UK, so even if you miss them, you can guarantee being looked after well. Current Prices are (students/volunteer discount) Self-Contained -22(20), double with bucket – 12(10), dorm 5(4), camping 3. extra person in the rooms 4. meals no more than 5Ghc, cheapest being 3 for the evening, so this place could be done on a budget of 15Ghc a day if necessary. the thing to remember is not only is it difficult to make the decision to leave, actually getting away isnt easy. waiting for a tro could take a long time, but taxis can be arranged to Agona (15Ghc) or Takoradi (25Ghc) which represent very good value. It is naturally best to do this in a group, but with the number of people there, its easy to do, and if you have to stay an extra night, what a shame!!! With such excellent staff, excellent food, even better cocktails, and a gorgeous beach, this place is just paradise!!! Steve Medley, Apr 08.
We have just opened a new beach bar, restaurant and accommodation business called Ghana Spirit on Butre beach, Western region. We offer simple, comfortable and clean self contained huts and dorms. The food is of a high standard and is mainly of European style with lots of fresh seafood. All of our guest have so far been extremely positive about our place and have recommended us to their friends. Contact email is ghanaspirit@hotmail.com. Ciara, May 08.
We have just opened a newly built self catering house located on a stunning private beach in the Dixcove/Busua area of the Western Region. Sleeping 4 in 2 double rooms, this unique house has stunning views across the Gulf of Guinea from the 1st floor balcony, enjoys total seclusion, and to top it all is only 10 minutes from great bars and restuarants like Green Turtle/Safari and Busua. More info at www.cetoghana.com or SMS +233(0)272 925633. Jamie and Claire Wilkinson, July 08.
