I visited Paga in November 2010 on a day trip from Tamale. Price have certainly gone up; to get one of the big crocs up from the Chief’s Pool was 7 Cedis, a chicken was 4 Cedis and video/camera was 5 and 2 Cedis respectively. Also 7 Cedis to visit Paga Pia’s Palace from what I could understand (didn’t do that)
As described in the guide I got contacted by a man from Al Hassan’s compound just across the road. All Hassan has passed away and this guy, Achallah (spelling?) around 60 y.o., is in charge now. He showed me around in the small compound and I also met his pregnant 17 y.o. (!) wife. He’s a very good storyteller and we had a good time which included him driving me to the local market and later making sure that I got the right tro-tro back to Tamale.
Some of the huts in the compound had broken down because of heavy rain and were under renovation. From what I could understand it’ll be possible to stay there overnight.
Achallah was not happy with the new much higher prices and claimed that the number of visitors has gone down a lot because of that. I didn’t see other visitors there so he may be right.