Pauwel en Marleen’s updates

We just returned from a 3 week trip through Ghana and would like to make some remarks with regard to information in the bradt guide (edition 2010) :

Accra : Shangri-la hotel has closed its doors

Afram plains : ferry Agordeke-Kpando has broken down since last year : crossing is not possible with cars

Mole : M&J shuttle is not organised any longer. Daily Metro bus is leaving from Tamale around 14.00 hrs (5 GHC) and returning at 4.00 hrs . Mole hotel : very good quality as compared to 28 years ago. Elephants, baboons, antelopes and warthogs frequented the compound. There is an extra offer now for guided 4 wheel drive tours (100 ghc for the vehicle to be shared by max 8 persons)

Tamale : bikes to rent at the taxi station for 3 ghc per day. Relax-lodge : completely overrated (135 ghc for a double room with full risk of electrocutation in the bathroom ) and breakfast is only included for one person. No indian food available! Picorna hotel was much better quality for more than half of the price. Asempa lodge : 7.5 km out of town on the road to Kumasi (not Daboya road as indicated on the map). Cheap and spacious rondavels for 50ghc (dbl, brkfst and dinner incl). Brkfst with pancakes ! Front of the motel under reparation after storm. Possibility of guided tour to nearby village at 15 ghc pp. (revenues go to the community).

Pauwel en Marleen. Belgium. (we stayed as volunteers in Ghana 28 years ago and wanted to see Ghana again)

Tricko Villa Lodge, Kpando

Patrick Kpikpi of the new Tricko Village Lodge writes:

A new lodge has been opened at Kpando in the Volta Region of Ghana. This is TRICKO VILLA, provide budget accommodation food and self catering with a very friendly manager, A  place every tourist will love to be and be happy.

It is a very small and homely lodge where the visitor can freely live as a home with self-catering availability. Most international volunteers spend sometime here lodging before moving to their respective homes. Prices range from GHc 20 to GHc 35 (GHc1.7 to $1), and are drastically reduced for a longer stay. 10% off the normal charge for a period of 1 to 2 months and 20% for period more than 2 months. Prices are also negotiable for the budget tourists who stay more than 2 days. Rooms are with ceiling fans self-contained and always kept neat. Internet facilities are available for free.

Tel: 00233 244 628 443

Email: trickovilla@gmail.com
Facebook: tricko villa

Location:
Tricko Villa
Yadema House
Angola Road
Kpando

Various updates from Jesper

Thank you for an excellent guide book, just a few corrections to the 5th Edition from a visit late 2010.

Page 77 Public Holidays: Farmer’s Day is 1st Friday in December, not a fixed date.

Page 78 Traditional Festivals. I traveled to the Keta Region to see the Hogbetsotso in Anloga but it hasn’t been celebrated for several years following a year with riots and shooting, from what I could understand the government had to set in soldiers and there was at least one killed.

Page 235 Keta Beach Hotel has fully renovated a/c rooms with TV and fridge except for the cheaper annex rooms. It still doesn’t see many guests though and the manager was somewhat disappointed with the review in 5th edition so I hope this will remedy the problem a bit. The beach near the hotel is very nice and an excellent way to see fishermen at work. Very friendly place in general if you want a couple of quiet days in good surroundings. There’s a food stall some 50 meters from the hotel towards the beach where they serve delicious fish at very reasonable prices. The food at the hotel is nothing spectacular but OK

Page 298 Afram Plains. I crossed from Kpando in November and the water in Lake Volta was so high that there was no ferry, only open longboats with room for maybe 50 passengers. A fine experience but it was very hot when we crossed and no shade at all. I don’t know if the high water was just for a short period but as it was you couldn’t cross with a car. I spent a couple of enjoyable days in Donkorkrom where they don’t see many foreign tourists. I stayed at St. Michael’s which is a fine hotel (not a guesthouse) with 4 self contained rooms in the main building and 6 more under construction of which 4 will have a/c. I paid less than 20 GHC for a self contained room, very clean with good plumming and TV. Cheaper rooms in the annex and also a couple of cheap guesthouses in town. I recommend that you make a reservations for St. Michaels since it is used a lot by local business men and government people. Phone 0848 22043 and 020 9019079

Kpandu & Nkawkaw

Steve Wilson Says:
(December 16, 2008)
I agree that Rose’s is an excellent place for food in Kpando. Ask someone to show you how to get there, for as Robert mentions, it is not on the street and difficult to find.

Also, in Nkawkaw, the Rojo Hotel in Nkawkaw is now asking $40 to $60 per night. They have a swimming pool and a new block of rooms, but the view of the plateau is marred by the trees in front of the hotel. Be sure to get a room on the top floor, but don’t bother with the Jacuzzi room. My traveling companion and I were both sick after eating in the hotel restaurant. There are plenty of better options unless you really want the swimming pool.

Nkawkaw is developing an area at the base of the Kwahu Plateau. The road is being paved and hotels are sprouting up all over. Turn towards the plateau at the junction nearest the STC station.

Updates from all over

Cassie Lo has just sent these detailed updates based on a long trip around Ghana (she travelled in Oct 07 but it still looks very useful stuff).  

-STC bus from Accra to Kumasi was 8 ghana cedi instead of 7.5

-There is no such hotel or guest house any longer called Golden Gate hotel in Donkorkrum.  They say it hasn’t been there for some time.  There is however a guesthouse called St. Michaels at a different location.  The rooms were very very nice, clean, with friendly staff and great food (we had an omelette, toast and tea for 3.5 Ghana Cedi).  There were wardrobes, desks and a self contained working bathroom all for 12 ghana cedi.

-The STC bus from Tamale to Mole left at 2:00.  The guide states sooner.  You must buy your tickets 2-4 hours in advance for 2.5 ghana cedi.  We bought our ticket at 9 am for the 2 pm departure and we were already passenger number 40 out of about 60.

-Mole to Larabanga will cost 2.5 ghana cedi for a hired car.  Larabanga to Damongo 1-5 ghana cedi depending on the source of the ride.  May have to wait one or two hours for a taxi or tro.  We hitched a ride with a motorbike…two of us with the driver for 10 ghana cedi from Larabanga to Damongo.

-Damongo to Damongo Junction 2 ghana cedi for a tro tro.  Be sure to arrive by 11 am otherwise the availability QUICKLY diminishes or even disappears of rides after that.

-Damongo Junction to Tamale, 1.5 hours, 1 ghana cedi

-Dankorkrum to Agordeke, 30 minute ride.  Roads mostly dirt but sufficiently ok compared to other dirt roads.  Guide book says they can be nearly impassable and maybe with rain…but they were some of the better dirt roads I’d seen.  Maybe they’ve worked on them?  some of the roads are partially paved as well.  I don’t see them being impassable even with the rain…maybe slower going, but definitely not impassable. 

-Ekye to Donkorkrum, mostly paved the whole way…1.5-2 hour ride, 1.5 ghana cedi

-Ho Hoe-Galaxy Hotel.  Double bed is really the size of 2.5 king size beds.  Single the size of king size bed.  Save the money and go for a single.  Double 30 ghana cedi, single 20 ghana cedi.  They have hot water here and EXCELLENT BREAKFAST!

-Akosombo-Zito Guesthouse.  15 ghana cedi for a double.  Again, huge beds, 2 put together.  If just two people, opt for the single.

-Kokrobite-Big Millies.  Single 9 cedi, Loft (open platform with a roof…mattresses on the floor, mosquito net…about ten of these) 3.5 cedi.  Bring your own lock if you intend on sleeping on the platform or no valuables at all.  They will and can get stolen.  They do offer a safe in the office of the place with the man who runs it.  He acts like your father and seems VERY trustworthy.  He will warn you all about the safety precautions before allowing you to pay for anything.  it’s like a father daughter talk.  LOVED big Millies.  Drumming/Dancing on Friday nights, Live reggae on Saturdays.  I believe a massage can be arranged as well for 10 cedi?

-Cape Coast-Savoy Hotel. 12 cedi for a double (normal size double) but they have REAL mattresses not foam!  Great price for a decent room.

-Akwada-Green Turtle. 12 double hut, provides mozzy nets

-Kumasi-Presbyterian Guest House-14 cedi for a double. 

-Tamale-Central Guesthouse-double 12 cedi, crap room.  no running water at all, bucket showers, doors wouldn’t lock or even shut some of them.  STAY SOMEWHERE ELSE

-Mole National Park-Mole Hotel, 22 cedi for a double.

-Bolgatanga- Sands Garden, 9 double.  Simple with no real amenities but clean!

-Kintampo-Midway. 5.5 cedi-felt like a whorehouse.  Only place available.  Mattress was so thin we could feel the wood beams so we put it on the floor…used condoms under the bed, rotting oranges, bugs.  Dirties place by far.  Bring your own sheet!  Sheet was DISGUSTING.  Best shower in Ghana though!  the pressure was amazing even though the drainage sucked.  Very friendly staff.  You’ll awake to a loudspeaker yelling the tro stops for hours nonstop

-Donkorkrum-Saint Michaels, 12 cedi double.  Nice rooms, bucket showers, self contained bath.

-Kpando-Blue of Ur Meditation Center.  Closed and moved to the main road out of Kpando (distance unknown).  Old site is overgrown and REALLY creepy like an old cemetary.

-Wli Falls to Ho Hoe.  Transporation scarce (waited one hour and not one vehicle passed by).  Worth hiring a taxi to wait for you and picking people up on the way back.  About 10-15 people were waiting and we all hitched a ride with a work truck full of cement.

-Currency-Don’t carry a bill larger than 5 cedi!  People can’t make change.  If you get money out of an ATM, take it into the bank for change.

-Mole National Park-2.5 cedi per person for approximately 2.5 hours of walking safari.  elephants at watering holes generally between 9 and 11 am.

-Larabanga-See the mosque, see the Salia Brothers.  If you see the mosque through the visitors center its 2 cedi with an additional request for donation (don’t give in unless you’d like).  Fridays are best with the exception of obstructed views of canopies.  All the doors are open so you can actually kind of see inside.  They slaughter a cow and disperse it amongst the community (sad!).  Approximately around 11 am is when they do the traditions at the mosque and the cow sacrifice if you care to see it.

-Restaurants-Expect at least half of the menu to be unavailable no matter where you go

-Takoradi-Ebase Internet no longer exists

-Green Turtle Lodge-Please note that the road there is a rough long road.  If you want to leave on Sundays it’s nearly impossible due to religious efforts and location.  For 18 cedi you can arrange a Green Turtle Lodge vehicle (if available) to take you to Agona.  Try to arrange asap for this as most travellers don’t find out until Sunday they are likely stuck there for one more night.  You can also have the bartender call a taxi but it’s very expensive (30-40 cedi just to Agona) and Agona is also small so another 60-70 cedi to Takoradi.

Latest Ghana updates Aug 08

Hi all,

For regular recipients of the old newsletter, the following are the updates that have been added to this site since the last newsletter was compiled: 

 

1. LOGBA TOTO

Updated entry for Logba Tota, by a PCV working there: Set on a steep forested slope facing Mount Gemi, the small and attractive town of Logba Tota is yet another site in eastern Ghana undergoing development as a community tourist project.  The main local attraction, about 2 km from town, is the Akpom waterfall, which plunges into a pool where you can swim safely. As with most waterfalls in the Hohoe District, the volume of water is greatest during the rainy season (May-Nov).  The cliff above the waterfall is riddled with deep caves that house an impressive bat colony, and are studded with stalactites and stalagmites.  In fact, a stalactite and stalagmite have formed a limestone pillar, the only structure of its kind in Ghana.  Other notable attractions include a sheer cliff wall stretching over 200 meters in length and an isolated hilltop called Ozomkpo (meaning Ashanti Mountain) where the Ashanti people hid their chiefs during a war in the 17th century.  All attractions lie within a 45-minute radius of town, and a guided tour can be arranged for around 5 Ghana Cedis (roughly US $5) per person by going to the tourist office which is currently managed by the Tourism Management Team. Coming in a private vehicle, the 7km turn-off to Logba Tota is signposted eastwards from Logba Alakpeti on the main Ho-Hohoe road.  The dirt road initially follows a valley, and is reasonably flat.  After about 3km, you’ll come to a junction where you need to turn left – from here onwards the road is mostly surfaced, and very steep ad winding.  Occasional shared taxis run between Logba Alakpeti and Logba Tota, but you could be in for a long wait – it might be worth paying for the extra seats to effectively charter the vehicle.  If you happen to arrive on a Logba market day (every 5th day), transportation by shared tro-tro is readily available. Beth Spletter, July 08.

 

2. KPANDO

There’s a wonderful restaurant in Kpando named Rose’s that serves Ghanaian and some American dishes, all in the $4.00 range. It advertises its location as across from the post office but doesn’t mention one has to traverse an unlighted dirt alley complete with sizable rocks and turn right after 100 feet or so ,go another 50 feet and turn right again. It’s worth the walk and if you go after dark, bring a torch to light your way. Robert Downey, July 08

 

3. KUMASI

I was surprised to find The Sir Max Hotel was not in the latest edition of the guide.  This hotel is south of Ahodwo circle, not quite as far as the Four Villages Inn.  I’ve not stayed there but they have two restaurants – an ‘El Gaucho’ style steak (good steak!) restaurant which is inside (and very cold, with not that much of an atmosphere) or an outdoor restaurant, by the pool, with a very relaxed vibe and great staff.  It is by far my favourite place to go of an evening.  They do great pizzas, and a half grilled chicken which rivals my mum’s roast dinners at home!  They’ve also started serving some of the ‘El Gaucho’ dishes out by the pool if you ask.  At the moment they have a great reggae band there on a Thursday evening. Alison Ely, Aug 08.

Supermarkets – A Life is really not that great anymore, I took a cursory look round when I frist moved to Kumasi and the shelves were sparse.  A better bet is Opoku Trading, opposite the main post office in Adum and not far from Vic Baboos.  It has food and housekeeping staples.  In Ahodwho, going south from the Circle, there’s a couple of Lebanese-owned places, one of them Safeway, on the right, next to the Sweet Bite restaurant, and then further down, over the junction and past the little row of shops, on the left, a small place called Nadville, which both have lots of western goods, which you pay for! Alison Ely, Aug 08.

The Royal Park Hotel, also south of Ahodwo circle, does amazing chinese food, it’s our staple for meals out! Alison Ely, Aug 08. 

 

4. BUSUA

We have just opened a newly built self catering house located on a stunning private beach in the Dixcove/Busua area of the Western Region. Sleeping 4 in 2 double rooms, this unique house has stunning views across the Gulf of Guinea from the 1st floor balcony, enjoys total seclusion, and to top it all is only 10 minutes from great bars and restuarants like Green Turtle/Safari and Busua. More info at www.cetoghana.com or SMS +233(0)272 925633. Jamie and Claire Wilkinson, July 08.

 

5. MOLE NP

Just wanted to send in a quick commentary that may be of concern in relation to Mole Motel in Mole National Park. I travelled there the other weekend with a large group. We have reservations but when we arrived late in the evening, after our Tro-Tro broke down, they informed us that our reservations have been lost or were never made. This happened to countless couples and groups that came after us during the weekend. We were forced to pay a large amount to sleep in mattresses on the dorm floor for the evening since there was no transportation at such a late hour to take us back to the neighboring village. It seems this is common practice at this location as I have heard similar complaints from other travellers as well. Travellers who arrive earlier in the day did not seem to have the same problem. Giving a warning to travellers to arrive during the day or to call once they reach the neighboring village to ensure that their Motel reservation is still in tact would be helpful.  Allyson Roy, July 08.

 

6. GRAMOPHONE RECORDS MUSEUM AND RESEARCH CENTRE OF GHANA

Established in 1994 by museologist Mr. Kwame Sarpong, this unique museum, the only one of its kind in the World devoted to Highlife Music, contains a vast collection of music majority of which were recorded by Ghanaian Music Recording artists and Groups. Majority of the nearly 18,000 recordings majority of which is the Ghanaian Highlife music dates as far back as 1927. Inside the archives of the Museum you can view an original copy of the Highlife Music Seminal; Yaa Amponsah, recorded on the Zonophone EZ Label by Jacob Sam and his Kumasi Trio in London in 1928 as well as those by George William Aingo, Nathaniels, Ben Simmons, Gaddiel Acquaah and Harry Quashie. The collection represents works of nearly 700 Ghanaian Recording artists on both the 78 shellac rpm records as well as the 45 and 33 1/3 Vinyl records from the early part of the 1920’s to the mid-1960’s and early 1980. In the collection are again several recordings from other African Countries, Europe and America as well as over 50 Vintage wind-up Gramophone equipments by the Victor Talking Machine of America, Gramophone Company of the UK as well as others from Switzerland and Japan.

 

Activities at the Museum:

In 2003, the Museum received a Grant from the Daniel Langlois Foundation for the Art, Science and Technology, a Montreal Based Not-for-Profit Organization to digitize a part of its collections. From this Grant it has already digitized 1000 of the Highlife Music from the collection. Copies of these have been deposited at the National Library and Archives of Canada as well as the Folklife Centre of the Unites States Library of Congress and can be accessed by researchers and students. Another copy has been deposited at the Archives of the Daniel Langlois Foundation for on-line presentation in late 2008.The second phase of the digitizing project involving a further 1000 songs has started with a Grant from the French Embassy in Ghana and should be finished by July 2009. As a prelude and forming part of the collections towards the establishment of a future Highlife Music Museum in Cape Coast, the Museum is collaborating with Professor Carmelle Begin, Curator Emeritus of the Canadian Museum of Civilization in Gatineau, Canada and Alliance Franciase de Development in Ghana in developing a permanent Exhibition of over 300 digitized Ghanaian Highlife Music Album Sleeves from the late 1960’s, 1970’s and 1980’s scheduled for opening in October, 2008.

 

Getting there:

Visitors to the Museum still located inside the Central Regional Centre for National Culture Buildings and opposite the Cape Coast University on the Accra /Takoradi main Highway in Cape Coast, will now have the opportunity of listening to some of the already digitized Ghanaian Highlife Music. 

The Museum is open everyday of the year from 10.00 hrs to 15.00 hrs except Sundays, Christmas, New Year and Easter Holidays. However, visitors can book for special appointments by contacting the Director/Archivist, Mr. Kwame Sarpong on the following:T elephone: 233 24 671 4517 (International) or 024 671 4517 (locally) Email: sarpongkwame@yahoo.com. Entrance Fees: Adultss (foreign): GhC 7.50; Adults (local) GhC 5.00; Students: GhC 2.00; Children (local): GhC 1.00; School groups: GhC 15.00 (10 per group); Children accompanied by Adults: Free.  Kwame Sarpong, July 2008