Graham’s trip report

Graham Douglas has sent me the following updates:

 

ACCRA

The STC terminal on Ring Road is still there but no buses, perhaps they have all been moved to the other one near Tudu station ?

There is another bus terminal for Benin, on the road towards Achimota from Nkrumah Circle, a few hundred yards on the left in an area called Carprice.

The City Garden restaurant is on the other side of Ring Road near Barclays. The have 2 menus, an orange one for Ghanaians and a purple one for foreigners, according to the waitress ! Difference is that everything is double price.Better use the one where you have Honest Chef, called Wok something.

Barclays only change TCs at the branch on High Street, and now only up to 150 pounds per visit.

Baseline Jazz Club is now called +233 , very good. Byewells was rubbish when we went , might as well have been a DJ.

You mention Eclipse bar on you map but it should be in Mompotsie rd, which is parallel, it is also a good budget hotel. (0302257263and there is a very good cybercafe opposite, with air-con.

The White Bell was good until my last visit when I asked for 2 separate dishes, and they put small amounts of each on the same plate but still charged for 2 dishes. Arguing proved fruitless.

KETA

The Emancipation Beach is a great place to chill, before getting back on the road. Driving is psychopathic, and gets far worse in Togo and Benin along the coast. Next time I come I will avoid the coast altogether and cross from Honuta to Kpalime.

ABURI
Try the Highlander Hotel , not far from the garden entrance – and not to be confused with the Oylander.

HO
Barclays won’t change ANY money except for their own customers only one that does is Stanbic and then won’t take CFA. Couldn’t find a Forex either.

ATIMPOKU
The Forex here will change CFA. The Adomi Hotel is now very rundown and not cheap. First room they showed me had filthy toilet and broken washbasin, when I moved I asked them to change the blue lamp for a white one and she said “just swap it with the bathroom light” ! Wires falling off the walls.

AKOSOMBO
The reception centre is where you say but about 1 or 2 Km before the police barrier. The taxi driver took me to the barrier and I then had to go back. Entrance fee is now 5 Cedis but you also have to pay at least 15 Cedis for another car to take you and the guide there. Luckily I was able to split this with another traveller. The tour is very superficial, so I don’t know who gave it a rave review. They don’t allow access to the turbine room either so really all you get is a chance to take a couple of photos ad hear a few basic facts that you can surely find on the web.

KOKROBITE

Phone numbers are out of date for the Garden Hotel/Restaurant,0546392850. This is a much quieter option than Big Millys, but the music is excellent still at Milly’s and so popular now, it looks set to be the next Goa.

Jo’s Chop, Kokrobite

I’d really like to recommend a fabulous place to eat .   It is Jo’s Chop in Kokrobite, placed conveniently close to the entrance to beach at the crossroads of Big Milly’s.  His food is probably the best street food I have eaten in Ghana in a year, in particular the fried egg sandwiches with kelewele.  You always get service with a smile and he is a gracious and charming young man.  It does sometimes take awhile to get your order so its good to plan ahead and order before you are hungry as he does like to chat!  But it is so worth the wait.  Great value 3CD fried rice and you don’t need to eat for the rest of the day!

Cindy

Big Milly’s Backyard, Kokrobite

I will sum this place up by saying “fantastic!” Experience this for yourself. Food amazing, service amazing, clean, friendly, breathtaking, organized and cheap! Do yourself a favour and go!

Lauren and Paul Locke

Barbara’s Village, Kokrobite

Barbara’s Village, owner-managed by a Slovenian woman who travelled to Ghana and fell in love with Ghanaian culture and decided to stay on, is one of the best place to stay in Langma-Kokrobite. The service is very good,the food,the bar and the atmosphere there is a pleasant. For more details see http://www.barbarasvillage.com.

CJ

Trip report from Hannah

We (two 20 year old girls) have just returned from a month in Ghana – just some updates/suggestions for future travellers!
Firstly thank you SO much for producing such an amazing guide book! There is no way we could have survived without it.

-Nzulezo is more expensive than the book suggests, it now costs GhC 20 for a non-ghanaian adult and C15 for a student. We were hassled slightly about giving the guide a tip but were spared having to give donations in the actual village as apparently we looked too young for the chief to bother asking! However, it was a wonderful trip and we went around 8am which was just so peaceful. We were told to avoid friday-sunday as apparently it gets very busy.

- Getting to and from Beyin is different and more expensive again than the book suggests. From Takoradi it costs C4.50 to Beyin in a tro-tro with several extra cedi for bags. Getting back to Takoradi from Beyin requires a different route – you have to get a tro-tro to “T1″ (Tikobo 1, a small town, but the locals know what you mean!) C1.40 and then another tro-tro from T1 to Takoradi C4.50. We would HIGHLY recommend the Beyin Beach resort – we stayed in the economy rooms which were immaculate and on 2 days were the only people in the resort. It is absolutely beautiful, the food is great, beach empty and we were woken at 6am by Patrick following some eggs hatching to come and watch the baby turtles make their way down to the sea! Amazing.

- We really enjoyed Cape Coast and Elmina but heard some unpleasant stories from friends about being accused of being involved in the Slave trade, hassled for money for an obviously fake charity and finally being threatened (outside Cape Coast castle) by some men that they would kill them. Personally I enjoyed Elmina more as again we got there early in the morning so there were only 6 of us in the guided group (as supposed to 30 in CC), and the guide was fantastic. Cape Coast was a nice town to walk around in, and we felt completely safe. There are some good rasta/souvenir shops opposite Castle View Restaurant which we enjoyed browsing.
- Boti Falls in the E/R was in the throws of a music festival and therefore we were charged C5 which seemed ridiculous, and may have just been because we were a big group but it is absolutely filthy- litter everywhere, and I mean everywhere, human excrement and a generally unpleasant environment. We were advised that we needed a guide to do the Jungle walk- this is a con, the man didn’t ‘guide’ us, it is an obvious footpath which starts off deceptively easily and then becomes a scramble vertically for quite a long distance to reach an umbrella rock for a view of the surrounding area. (and a 3 headed palm tree). Certainly would not bother with that again! And it is very hard work (we are both physically fit), and pretty dangerous unless you have suitable footwear and enough water in the heat.

-Big Millys was great, yes it is touristy but the resort is just what you want for a very reasonable price. The food was delicious and there are people selling fruit etc on the beach just outside. I have just read a previous report advising people to explore outside the resort, in daylight this is absolutely fine, but after dark it is best not to leave the resort. Some friends were staying in another resort further down the beach and the only way they were allowed to walk down to BM at night along the beach was with an armed guard. It is a dangerous area and we certainly felt when we were walking back at dusk that there was a different atmosphere and we wanted to get back as quickly as possible!

- We found Accra the most unpleasant experience of all! It was simply filled with honking transport and hassling people, the most we were hassled in the whole country and after 10 minutes we decided we’d had enough. This was the end of our trip so it wasn’t like we hadn’t experienced being hassled as obrunis before, and in most other places it was simply verbal, but in Accra it was physical as well. We were grabbed by stallholders desperate for us to look at their stock and sometimes they were unwilling to let go. We had to shout at people to let go and frequently say “don’t touch me” as we felt threatened just walking through the market. I certainly wouldn’t bother going to Accra again. Jamestown sounded like something worth seeing from the guidebook but just walking through the edge we were getting hostile glances and again felt very uncomfortable.
The only good thing was visiting the Jay Nii project by the lighthouse- what an amazing couple and would highly recommend people just going and having a look or talking to them. At present they are completing an accommodation block and currently work with 50 children, paying for their primary education, and their food, clothes, board etc if they need it.
Kaneshie market was an experience – it has everything you could possibly want (and more!) fruit, veg, spices, meat, beautiful cloth, household items, store cupboard supplies, beads, buttons, jewellery, shoes…. If you want clothes handmade then it is the place to go! We spoke to a group of women who said they could make a dress in any material for the next day.
Crystalline Hostel was brilliant, although it is located in a suburb which is quite hard to find when you’re first trying to get there! However there are tro-tros connecting it to surrounding areas and the centre which are cheap (C0.55 to central Accra) but there are chop bars, fruit stores, shops etc in Darkuman so everything is there without the need to go into Accra. Aunty and uncle are great, and the food we had at the hostel was delicious. It is a fantastic set-up, highly recommended.

Hannah

Kokrobite updates

I spent several weeks traveling/volunteer/wandering throughout the entirety of Ghana and one of the most interesting place I came back to time after time only continued to become better and better each stay. From a cynical volunteer/backpacker’s perspective Big Milly’s in Kokrobite is at first glance a giant tourist trap, that provides a tourists and volunteers a hedonistic place of reggae, beach, and westernized cuisine. However, there barebones $4/night tree-house style open dorms brought me back again and again for its affordability and the vibe it emitted from sleeping out in the warm ocean breeze. Each time I returned, I learned new staff members names, their stories, and even have had the pleasure to converse with Big Milly herself who’s real is Wendy. Wendy caters to wealthy tourists in posh, air conditioned bungalows. But she also knows how to provide a low-budget backpacker with a great experience because she herself still backpacks around the country. Big Milly’s is a must-go-to destination for any traveler in Ghana. Not simply for its lively music on weekends, and complex party/relax atmosphere but because of its incredible local staff and community that I encourage future travelers to engage with.

 

While falling in love with the atmosphere inside the walls of Big Milly’s, travelers should be encouraged more strongly to venture beyond Big Milly’s gate to see how much the surrounding area of Kokrobite has to offer by way of conversation and food. Living in such a tourist destination allows for many people in the area to have relatively good English to converse about politics or President Atta Mill’s latest promise for paved roads into Kokrobite (elections are coming up so constructions seems to have stimulated recently). While exploring the surrounding community, be sure to check out the most affordable breakfast spot in the area. As a budget traveler, I have sampled Ghana’s cheapest most fulfilling breakfast, egg and bread, from across the whole country. Egg and bread is typically a fried egg (or two) on toasted bread. Many different regions/towns have their own spins on the staple such as adding a little bell pepper, some onion, or even cabbage. To find the best egg and bread in Ghana look no further than a five minute walk from the gates of Big Milly’s to the Intelligence Business Center (IBC). The name may have nothing to do with food, but that’s because the IBC also provides travelers and locals a place to take guitar lessons, french lessons, get their shoes repaired, or buy locally made crafts from Benin artisan and Kokrobite resident Dossou Dodognon. After ordering the egg and bread with the works (fried egg, onion, peppers, spicy peppe, and mayonnaise) with a nescafe (for about $1) you can browse Dossou’s crafts and antiques that are the most affordable I have seen in Ghana. Dossou is not your trypical pushy craft seller either. He is more interested in telling you about how he makes each craft or playing some music with you. Sitting down to your breakfast you can converse with the IBC owner, Nelson Comal Dine, who will gladly talk about local and global politics with you. This place is a gem that every traveler should experience. Not only is it a really friendly cool place, but it is more important a chance for travelers to truly immerse themselves in a local business where they will sit side by side with other Ghanaians to enjoy breakfast and shoot the breeze.

Contact details are

International Business Center, Lagman Road, Kokrobite

Nelson Come Dine (owner IBC), 233.054.089.7456

Dossou Dodognon (artisan at IBC), 233.054.156.1152

Thanks again for a great guide.

 

Safe Travels and Cheers, Ryan

Barbara’s Village, near Kokrobite

Langma is village next to Kokrobite and that’s where Barbara’s Village (www.barbarasvillage.com) is based.

It’s owned by a fellow Slovene and offers similar level of service than Asempa Lodge or Lake Point Guesthouse by Bosumtwi lake. Barbara and her Ghanean staff are all very friendly and helpful as well as all the villagers we met (Barbara has lived there for 10 yrs and is well respected). Kokrobite is just a taxi ride away if you’re after some night life (Barbara’s village puts on dance and drumming performances occasionally but in general it’s a very quiet in relaxing place geared towards the middle-aged and senior travellers or anyone in search of some peace and quiet).

Ali’s updates

I’ve just got back from a month in Ghana. The Bradt’s was a bible but there are a few things that may prove useful for future editions/other travellers. Thanks so much for making the journey light years easier though!

Kokrobite

1, Big Millie’s is great – easy, fun, friendly. Their Red Red was amongst the best I tasted, so if you fancy trying some do it there.

2, If you are leaving on a Sunday Morning the Tro tro’s can be very busy. Church hour.

 

Green Turtle

1, The *most* amazing place, take advantage of the tours on offer. The hike to Cape Three Points is especially spectacular.

2, A taxi there from Takoradi should be no more than 30 cedi

3, Be careful about getting a taxi in Dixcove if you end up there. The cabs there tried to operate like a cartel and charge me 200 cedi for a max 5 cedi ride. Thankfully some strangers took pity on me and then unleashed a torrent of abuse at them.

 

Cape Coast/Elmina

1, Sammo’s guesthouse was very quiet the weekend I went. Except at 5am which was the time when they started noisly cleaning the place. The reception was also the surliest I found anywhere.

2, If you want nightlife head to Oasis Beach resort instead.

3, Keep hold of your bag at St Jago’s in Elmina. A friend I was with had her bag stolen (and then returned by someone taking a pee in a bush who apprehended the thief!) there.

4, The resort at Elmina that offers riding does it on a haphazard basis. The groom claimed it was too wet to ride. It was a dry day..

 

Tamale

1, Some buses to Tamale go via Suryani, this can add an extra hour to the journey. The road between Techniman and Kintampo is currently being resurfaced.This extends the time further and makes for a bone crunching ride

2, The Assempa Lodge in Tamale isn’t due to open until mid december 2010. My advice is to go to Sparkles and check the situation there. The staff at Sparkles are extremely friendly and helpful with all sorts of questions

3, A further good restaurant has opened heading to Bolga out of Tamale. Called Mike’s it is by the Barclays a few mins north of town and serves Western and Lebanese food.

4, The Metro Mass station has moved West a little. It’s still not far from the STC station though..

5, Central Guest House as reccomended in the book is the worst place I stayed by a mile! I stayed two nights, left early on the first to go to Mole and returned at 10pm to find someone had spent the day sleeping in my bed, not changed the sheets and left their t-shirt behind. My friends didn’t get a lock on their door. I’d strongly advise people to avoid it. You’ll also get woken by the morning call to prayer..

6, The STC between from Tamale to Kumasi gets very booked up. The Tro’s can be quicker but if you want STC, book in advance.

 

Hohoe & Wli

1, It’s 5 cedis for a taxi from HoHoe to Wli.

2, A walk to the upper falls is recommended but it is hard work. I’m pretty fit but found it hard. Take plenty of water

3, The guides there are in cahoots with the taxi drivers to rip you off to get back to HoHoe. We went on a Sunday, they said there would be no Trotro’s.. there were plenty.

 

Ada Foah

1, I found this to be a less good version of Green Turtle – much dirtier.

2, Which grates given you get charged a 1 cedi tourist tax by the tourist office so that they can clean the beach. I cut my foot on glass there so I’d keep your flip flops on

 

Some general tips

1, I travelled on my own and generally think I made huge numbers of friends that way. I spent the entire month pretending I was married and on one occasion took to telling a taxi driver I worked for his Government before he stopped trying to hit on me. It was an ultimate line to keep back

2, You’ll come across a malt based drink called Alvaro. It’s brilliantly refreshing, try and expect to get addicted

3, People get each other’s attention by hissing. To the Western ear it sounds rude but really it isn;t. You’ll spend all night tryign to catch a waitresses eye.. or you can hiss and get their attention instantly. No contest really.

Ali

 

Ghana is an incredibly welcoming and friendly country. Enjoy it.

 

 

 

 

Solo Forest contact details

Hi. I am writing to you to provide some updated information regarding the Solo Forest Monkey Sanctuary near Kokrobite Beach in Ghana. 
A guest recently showed me the short write-up in the Bradt Travel Guide, and pointed out that there is no contact information for Solo Forest. Since it can be difficult to find us, I thought I should let you know that we do have a well-maintained e-mail account where we can be reached for questions, directions, etc. 
Solo Forest Monkey Sanctuary can be reached at Solo.Forest@gmail.com.
Thank you so much for your time, and we really appreciate what you are doing with these travel guides!
Regards,
     Kommiete at Solo Forest

Kokrobite

Originally posted Oct 28, 2008
Kokrobite has been a regular place for me, living some months now in Ghana. I think it is not so bad about robbery and muggins if you watch yourself and your belongings, with my friends there is always someone on the shore watching our things, never left them alone for a second.

Big Melly’s Place is definitely the place to be in Kokrobite, but the ‘Rasta Party’ of saturdays is not my favourite point.

My Garden Restaurant is by far the best place to eat in Kokrobite, period. My personal recommendation is pizza of your choice and Lemon Ice Tea.

The kids and youngsters around the beach are not to be taken seriously or as an annoyance, it is easy either to mingle with them or ignore them.

Greets,

Esteban Martinez