I spent 4 months in Ghana during 2007 in which I lived just near Kumasi and travelled North to South and recently spent another 2 weeks in 2010 travelling mostly East to West. I have a few updates to the Bradt Guide which I hope will prove useful for the next edition (I was travelling with the 4th edition as the 5th edition was not yet out).
ACCRA – I stayed at the Silver Gate Hotel. It is located in Demalt (North Kaneshie) and rooms cost between 15 and 25 cedi. The rooms are very large, self-contained places with a fan and TV. The staff are very friendly and helpful. I stayed here twice and both times it was excellent.
CAPE COAST – Stayed at the Red Cross Hotel. Actually quite impressed. It was really clean and the staff were eager to help even going so far as using their mobile phones to call our next port of call to see whether they had rooms available. At Cape Coast Castle they employ policemen to help tourists (and keep hawkers out). They are really friendly and even gave me lunch while I was waiting for my friend to finish.
ELMINA – Mabel’s Table. We walked here from Elmina Castle and it was quite a trek! It was a bit more expensive then quoted in the 4th edition but the food was excellent and they were really large portions. Probably one meal between two would have sufficed.
BEYIN – Beyin Beach Resort. This was our favourite place. The new budget accommodations cost 20 cedi a night (huts with beds and mosquito nets). It was very clean, the shared bathrooms were the best I have seen and it was in such a beautiful location.
NZULEZO – We didn’t stay here. The boat ride was so beautiful although I didn’t see too much as I was constantly bailing out the boat! Did seem a bit gimmicky. The chief’s daughter brought her purse along to our ‘meeting’ to pocket any money we seemed obliged to fork out. Interesting place though.
PRAMPRAM – We set out to find the Turtle Conservation and Ecotourism Project but could not find any sign of it. We asked around the village and nobody seemed to think that they were still around. I have big question marks next to this project in my book. Hotel de Vas was closed, nobody seemed sure if it was going to reopen. We stayed at Sealane and had the same problems as other readers. The ‘Western-style’ food was very expensive. There no water and broken lights. It looked like a very tired place. When we told them we weren’t going to pay unless we got water, they fixed something and we had temperamental water but no hot water. For 30-60 cedis a night, we could have hoped for much more (just take Beyin Beach Resort for instance!). The breakfast which is included is just tea and bread (egg is extra!). Highly recommend not staying here. On the other hand, the ‘Who is your friend chop bar’ had excellent fresh food and really good service.
KETA – From Ho we caught a tro-tro to Denu and then one to Keta. We stayed at Abutia Guesthouse for 12 cedi. The shared bathrooms were absolutely full of mosquitoes (as were the rooms…). I guess that’s what you pay for being so close to the lagoon. The restaurant was not serving food and they instead sent us to Angel Food (on the road to the Lighthouse) which had really good and well-priced food.
BIAKPA – Mountain Paradise Lodge. Unfortunately the weather was terrible while we were staying here and I got the feeling that they were trying to charge for every single little thing. Everything came at a cost. There was no mention of the shared bathroom accommodation (maybe it was full?) and we were not allowed to use tents as it was so wet. The self-contained room was priced considerably more than the book said at 25 – 39.5 cedis. There is now electricity at the site. Taxis were expensive to get there but we were lucky enough to meet the owner of Mountain Paradise at Fume who, although on his way to Hohoe, took our bags so that we could more easily walk the distance from Fume to the Lodge.
FUME – Hanson’s Spot was closed and didn’t look like it was going to reopen anytime soon. We asked many, many people in the village about the unsignposted guesthouse but nobody seemed to know about it.
TAFI ATOME. Accommodation cost 15 cedi. The beds were the most uncomfortable that I came across in Ghana. They do have a running shower now though (no buckets) and the drinks in the shop were cold. The monkey tour was at 6am and we had an excellent guide. Food at the chef’s house was amazing! Seemed the ONLY way to get to and from Tafi Atome was by motorcycle for 1 cedi each way.
HOHOE – Stayed at Grand Hotel. The bar was really loud. I slept with earplugs. Had breakfast at Taste Lodge. Reasonable food but service was very slow (even for Ghana!).
KUMASI – I stayed with friends but when I did have to stay in a hotel in the city, I went to the Kumasi Wesleyan Guest House which is on Asomfo St. It was quite disappointing. There were many stairs to get there and it was not that clean (hair in shower and when we asked to move rooms because our air conditioner didn’t work there were tissues under the bed…). 32 cedis a night for TV and air con. Good location. Nurom Inn Annexe was closed for renovations.
LAKE BOSUMTWI – 2 cedi entrance fee for white people. Good lunch and drinks at Lake Paradise Resort.